| Re: Bottle Conditioning - Little Head I keg also, my method now is this:
primary in a glass carboy, secondary in a corney keg (Either vent every
few days or allow it to naturally carbonate).
Put the beer at 38f (My kegerator temp) for about 1-2 days on co2 to
settle yeast.
Draw off a glass or 2 until beer is mostly clear.
use a jumper (2 liquid ball locks and a hose) to transfer from secondary
keg to clean/sanitized keg (Better if you pressurize it first).
Hook up keg to kegerator and drink the next day.
This results in fairly clear beer, most of the yeast that settles is
gone in my serving keg. If I am taking a keg to a party I always
transfer off the sediment to a clean/sanitized keg so I don't show up
with cloudy beer.
The major advantages to this are:
1) corney kegs take up less space in a lagering refrigerator/converted
freezer.
2) racking cane is only used once, less chance of infection, and MUCH
easier.
the only disadvantage is you want to have a few kegs around, currently I
have 15.
basskisser wrote:[color=blue]
>
> On Jan 25, 12:07 pm, BierNewbie
> <BierNewbie.2kz...@usenet.brewtank.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> How much priming sugar and what size batch? 2 weeks is not enough time
>> for bottle conditioning especially if the beer was really clear. Give
>> it 4-5 weeks before you jump off the ledge. I quit the bottle
>> conditioning and started kegging because I couldn't wait. Way less
>> frustration and beer faster and easier. No more bottle washing and
>> priming.
>>
>> --
>> BierNewbie[/color]
>
> Bier, I used 4 ounces (weighed) of priming sugar in a 5 gal. batch,
> which ended up being about 4 3/4 gal. in the secondary. The beer was
> fairly clear, b[/color]
eing a week in primary, and close to two weeks in[color=blue]
> secondary. I can't wait to start kegging. Do you force carbonate?
>[/color] |