Joe wrote:[color=blue]
>
> In my experience regarding poor or slow fermentation and carbonation
> 1. the temp at which you ferment is very important. For ale, above 65
> MINIMUM. I prefer 72 degrees.[/color]

This is oretty deependeant on the yeast strain you use, but in general I
find my beers are much better if I keep the temp. well under 70...except
for some Belgian strains.
[color=blue]
> 2. I was told by my supplier to NOT use liquid yeast unless I was making an
> exotic like Begian style beer. He told me to mix the beer very well by
> shaking and stirring the fermentor and then ADD THE DRY YEAST AT THE TOP
> without rehydrating it first. Let it sit, do NOT shake or stir again. In
> 24 hrs I get perfect slow fermentation and essentially complete. I usually
> put in 2 packets dry.[/color]

Why on earth not use liquid if that's what you want to use? How do you
make a good hef, for example, with dry yeast?
[color=blue]
> 3. My secondary fermentation is for the more complex sugars to convert. I
> do not get any reaction from the water air lock. What is important is the
> completion via the FG readings of the hydrometer. When they repeat each
> day, you are complete.[/color]

"My secondary fermentation is for the more complex sugars to
convert"...doesn't make much sense to me...do you mean complex sugars to
ferment? That has already been accomplished by the time you get to
secondary usually. Secondary is more a clearing and conditioning stage.
[color=blue]
> 4. I had a Red Hook Clone not ferment in the bottle and almost completely
> flat. I uncapped each one and poured in a 1/2 teaspoon of the carbonating
> corn sugar to each bottle and recapped them. After about two weeks at room
> temp, I tried one and it was fine.[/color]

Good technique!

------------->Denny
--
Life begins at 60 - 1.060, that is.

Reply to denny_at_projectoneaudio_dot_com