Alex,
I am going to comment in a way that many will disagree with:
Using a beer hydrometer is tricky particularly when the scale is also marked
for wine as most are.
It is not hard to get a very good feel for what is going on & the use of a
hydrometer rarely helps in my experience.
Frankly although I have owned a couple of good quality hydrometers for years
I use them rarely & then more out of interest, or because I have a bit of
time on my hands.
I know when my brews have completed fermentation, its obvious after a
vigorous start & the gradually declining issue of gas over the airlock
during the next 4 days or so. I let the brew setlle & bottle with the
addition of 5 ml of white priming sugar into 750 ml bottles.
Not all my brews are great, but what faults do present are not capable of
remedial action as a result of a hydrometer reading.
This of course is heresy, but 40 odd years ago nobody bothered with a
hydrometer, we were too busy trying to obtain quality brewing yeasts, good
hops, & fighting against possible infection.
Not bad principles to follow now really.

Rgds,
Pete


"Alex MacGillivray" <sockeye@kpunet.net> wrote in message
news:op.s0ks480b41virp@alex-main...[color=blue]
>I don't want to call this a problem because it's really not. I'd just like
>a little feedback from the community.
> The last several batches of beer I've made, including an oatmeal stout,
> have fermented all the way down to 1.010. I've been sticking to Wyeast
> 2112 and 1056 mostly, although other yeasts have produced the same effect.
> Five years ago I did a Trappist with an OG of 1.084 and it also fermented
> out to 1.010.
> There are no off flavors and the finished product is also a pleasure to
> drink.
> I make 14.5 gallon batches at a time and normal fermentation time in the
> primary is 2-3 weeks and secondary fermentation until I feel the FG is
> reached. That may be as long as 2 months or more.
> Anyone else have this experience?
>
> Alex
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