Does anyone have a recipe for a Danish beer Tuborg? Please keep it simple
i'm not into crushing grains yet.

Regards
Mark

\"Rev Dr\" Lenny Flank wrote:[color=blue]
>
> On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 00:26:05 GMT, "Kryten"
> <kryten_droid_obfusticator@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
> >
> >BARLEY WINES AND STRONG ALES
> >[/color]
>
> What's the difference, if any, between a "barley wine" and a "malt
> liquor".
>
> And is this just beer with added sugar to produce more alcohol?[/color]

Quite a bit of difference. A BW is a strong ale (usually 10-12%) that's
highly hopped. A malt liquor is more like 6-7& ABV and is a lger (cold
fermented and conditioned). It can have some sugar in it, but usually
corn is used to up the alcohol and lighten the body. You can read more
about these styles at [url]www.bjcp.org[/url] .

--------->Denny
--
Life begins at 60 - 1.060, that is.

Reply to denny_at_projectoneaudio_dot_com

Kryten wrote:[color=blue]
>
> Just for you, I've scanned and OCR'd the recipe! :-)[/color]
<snippage>[color=blue]
> 5. When cool to room temperature add the yeast.
> Ferment in a cool place until the specific gravity falls to 1010
> and rack into gallon jars or a 25 litre polythene cube.
> Apportion gelatine finings before fitting airlocks.[/color]

You need to use the correct yeast and fermnent at 45-55F (sorry, I'm
Celsius challenged!). If you don't do that, the rest of the recipe
doesn't matter.
[color=blue]
> 6. Leave for 21 days before racking the beer
> from the sediment into primed beer bottles.
> Allow 21 days maturation before sampling.[/color]

Not quite...after the cold fermentatin, a lager needs to be transferred
to secondary and cold conditioned (that's caleed "lagering", where the
style derives its name). for at least a couple months at 35F. That's
where the beer gets its clean, crisp character.
[color=blue]
> Water for ‘lager’ brewing:
>
> If you have non-chalky water, do nothing.
>
> If not then either:
> - add 1 tsp of flaked calcium chloride or lactic acid solution
> OR
> - Boil water for 15 mins and rack off the soft water for use when cool.[/color]

Do nothing to your water unless you have an analysis to know where
you're strting from. It's easier than not to screw it up if you don't
have a baseline.

Lagers take a lot more time, effort, and equipment than ales do. Make
sure you understand what you're getting into when you brew one.

--------->Denny
--
Life begins at 60 - 1.060, that is.

Reply to denny_at_projectoneaudio_dot_com

"Denny Conn" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:42274701.1BAD6505@privacy.net...[color=blue]
> Someone wrote:[color=green]
> >
> > Eventually I do want to get into crushing grains and the rest of it, I'm
> > just not at that level yet.
> > but if you can give me the recipe and I'll just store it until I'm[/color][/color]
ready,[color=blue][color=green]
> > also could you give me the IBN for that book i shall have a squiz.
> >
> > also Denny's temperature range (correct me if I'm wrong my calculations
> > might be a bit out) is only about 12 - 15 degrees C, that seems[/color][/color]
extremely[color=blue][color=green]
> > low, I know it's a Scandinavian beer but wouldn't those temperatures be[/color][/color]
too[color=blue][color=green]
> > low for the yeast, or does this temperature have something else to do[/color][/color]
with[color=blue][color=green]
> > the mashing of the grains.[/color]
>
> No, it's correct. Lager yeast work in a much lower temp range than ale
> yeast...that's what makes it a lager! If you don't ferment at between
> 45-55F, you'll get fruity esters that will be completely out of
> character for a lager.
>[/color]
Hmm. I fermented a lager at 8°C - 10°C and it still ended up with a slight
estery taste. Now I ferment at 6°C - 8°C. They bubble away quite happily at
that temp.
Steve W.

> You need to use the correct yeast and fermnent at 45-55F (sorry, I'm[color=blue]
> Celsius challenged!).[/color]

It's really easy. It's based on water. 0 = freezing point. 100 = boiling
point.
Now how does F work again?

--
Steve W.

"Denny Conn" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:42274DB7.C4825422@privacy.net...
[color=blue]
> You need to use the correct yeast and ferment at 45-55F (sorry, I'm
> Celsius challenged!). If you don't do that, the rest of the recipe
> doesn't matter.
>
> after the cold fermentation, a lager needs to be transferred
> to secondary and cold conditioned (that's called "lagering", where the
> style derives its name). For at least a couple months at 35F. That's
> where the beer gets its clean, crisp character.
>
> Do nothing to your water unless you have an analysis to know where
> you're starting from. It's easier than not to screw it up if you don't
> have a baseline.
>
> Lagers take a lot more time, effort, and equipment than ales do. Make
> sure you understand what you're getting into when you brew one.[/color]

Thanks for the tips.

As mentioned, I haven't tried any of the recipes.
I merely quoted the recipe.

Dave Line seems to have been a respected voice in his day, so presumably he
had a good go at emulating the particular brews.

Your point about yeast is welcome. Yeasts tend to get sold as labelled for
making bread, beer or wine. Which is probably a gross simplification. I'm
reminded of a nice Indian shop on Regent St, Cambridge. The proprietor
mentioned some Americans came in and asked for some cheese. He said
"Certainly ma'am. What kind would you like?" To which the reply was "Er,
gee, just cheese". So he sold them some mild cheddar.

My point is that yeast fungi are probably almost as diverse as cheese fungi,
and most people know the diversity of flavours in the latter.

So Denny, where can we buy the right yeasts? The Danish brewing industry did
a lot of work to isolate individual strains of yeasts around the late 19th
century, thus making beermaking more repeatable and consistent. I imagine
the professional brewers buy pedigree strains from specialist laboratories,
but can the amateur get hold of suitable yeasts?


The point about temperature is welcome too. 35F is barely above freezing
(32F). Which is rather fortuitous that an ideal summer drink can be best
brewed in the winter months. And come to think of it, the fruity esters of
warm weather fermentation are welcome in winter fireside ales. Proof indeed,
that Bacchus loves his worshippers. :-)

"QD Steve" <adlab@bigpond.trashthisbit.dot.net.dot.au> wrote in message
news:kfOVd.182882$K7.46691@news-server.bigpond.net.au...[color=blue][color=green]
>> You need to use the correct yeast and fermnent at 45-55F (sorry, I'm
>> Celsius challenged!).[/color]
>
> It's really easy. It's based on water. 0 = freezing point. 100 = boiling
> point.
> Now how does F work again?[/color]

IIRC, 32F = 0C, 212F = 100C.


So
C = (F-32) * 5/9
F = +32 + (C * 9/5)

"> but can the amateur get hold of suitable yeasts?

I use Wyeast liquid yeast products [url]http://www.wyeastlab.com/[/url]

These are American but are sold the world over. They are readily available
in Australia and I would imagine easy to get hold of in the UK. If you can't
find them, just email Wyeast and they will respond with a list of suppliers
in your area. There is also Whitelabs, they're fairly easy to find and then
there are a few dried yeast manufacturers, Danstar (Canadian) Safale (?) and
no doubt others as well.
Steve W.

"QD Steve" <adlab@bigpond.trashthisbit.dot.net.dot.au> wrote in message
news:1hPVd.182931$K7.98144@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
[color=blue]
> I use Wyeast liquid yeast products [url]http://www.wyeastlab.com/[/url][/color]

Aha! that looks the ticket.

Their range is as wide as any well stocked cheese emporium.

I notice they even have a cider yeast.

I once made a cider, started with a wine yeast, and conditioned it in glass.
Had a gorgeous apple-pie aroma.

Sadly I've been unable to duplicate it, I can't recall the exact yeast I
used and I'm not keen on bottling anymore. I just use plastic "beersphere"
kegs.
[color=blue]
> dried yeast manufacturers[/color]

Do you reckon dried yeasts are generally inferior to liquid yeast cultures?

I find things often have cons for every pro, so perhaps the 'pro' of longer
shelf life is countered by compromised flavour?

K.

"Kryten" <kryten_droid_obfusticator@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:S9QVd.730$w.44@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...[color=blue]
> "QD Steve" <adlab@bigpond.trashthisbit.dot.net.dot.au> wrote in message
> news:1hPVd.182931$K7.98144@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> Do you reckon dried yeasts are generally inferior to liquid yeast[/color]
cultures?[color=blue]
>[/color]
That's a matter of opinion. There are some very good dried yeasts especially
for ales - Nottingham from Danstar is noted as being one of the more popular
dried yeasts and generally, they only become popular for one very good
reason.

Most dried yeasts are ale yeasts. I don't know about dried lager yeasts but
(IIRC) I believe Safale has or is about to release a dried lager strain or
two. Certainly with liquid yeasts the choices are much larger but on the
downside they are more expensive, more difficult to work with ( as in
preparing starters) and you can bet that your LHBS will have every strain in
stock except the one that you want.